Unless you’ve been off the grid, chances are you’re no stranger to the rise of the no-pants fashion trend, which first arose in 2022. At the time, it might have seemed like it would be a fleeting trend, but the in crowd quickly took to cementing it as a signature part of the going-out arsenal. It girls like Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, and Bella Hadid have worn their “panties out” on the regular. With every season since this trend’s debut, we’ve seen it subtly evolve. Spring/summer 2024 collections were not immune to this pattern. Unlike previous versions of this trend, which focused solely on the shock factor of exposed panties, we saw designers take a more modest approach to the look by experimenting with tailoring, layering, and textiles. For the latter, hot pants came in materials that didn’t necessarily feel lingerie adjacent. For example, Miu Miu’s F/W 23 collection had briefs made from wool. In contrast, ACNE Studios’ S/S 23 collection featured leather-made ones.
If textiles weren’t how designers aimed to make the exposed-panties trend more polished, they did so through layering. From Nensi Dojaka to LaQuan Smith to Alaïa, we could see exposed bodysuits, thongs, and briefs peaking out underneath sheer skirts, gowns, and catsuits, adding just the right amount of coverage. However, the greatest way in which designers managed to make this risqué trend more wearable was by using tailoring to create the illusion of exposed underpinnings without actually having them all out there. Just reference Henne’s collection, in which a low-slung draped skirt perfectly emphasizes the V-cut of a bodysuit, or the overlay thong detail in the jaw-dropping gold runway look from Diesel’s S/S 24 collection. They’re proof that pulling off the whole “panties out” look is very possible and worth celebrating.